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Message: <blockquote data-quote="salitha22" data-source="post: 22143434" data-attributes="member: 525534">--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Extreme Modification Now we are down to the serious  modifiers. Comfort and driveability is  usually second to engine  performance and speed is your goal. These next  levels are not only  expensive and it require an experience mechanic to  perform the  modification. If anything goes wrong, you are not only  wasting your  money but also your time. Besides that, do think of  whether after this  final stage upgrade will the performance satisfy  you? If not it is  better to save up the money and go for engine  transplant.The following mods require you to decide, which of the following ways you are going which will be1. Suspension Modifications - Level 3<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxT41yWERI/AAAAAAAAAoo/4ZfdiAlxn_g/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+012.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxT41yWERI/AAAAAAAAAoo/4ZfdiAlxn_g/s640/4G13+and+4G15+modification+012.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a>The   last stage of suspension modification is changing to either coil over   adjustable suspension or just adjustable suspension. There are few   guidelines as below:1. I recommend the Tien units.  To put it quite simply, many Japanese  units are set very very hard, so  even on there softest unit the car is  very harsh, hurts kidney's and  actually has worse handling as it skips  all over the road. The hardest  setting on the Tien units, are equal to  the softest setting on the  Japanese normal imported units. I cannot  recommend these enough - they  are simply fantastic with the ability to  set your road height, rebound  levels etc.2. These Tien Units  are also available to be electronically adjusted on  there rebound rates  via up to one independent controller per corner,  or one controller on  all four units as an example. Mostly for extreme  racing only.2. Performance Camshaft 4G13 and 4G15<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxmnN5x1JI/AAAAAAAAApg/Aap_j3gQ3KI/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+019.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxmnN5x1JI/AAAAAAAAApg/Aap_j3gQ3KI/s640/4G13+and+4G15+modification+019.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a>When   selecting a performance camshaft, consider the use for which the   vehicle will be required. We all know the claims: 20 BHP extra. Be   conservative! Don’t over-cam your engine. Choose your cam for the   correct application. Consider! Fit a milder cam and increase your power   by 10 BHP at 3500 rpm. Remember! You get this 10 HP every time you   accelerate through 3500 rpm. Multiply this by 10 HP each time you drive   through 3500 rpm then deduct the times you reach 7500 rpm. I’m sure you   will find more horsepower on the 3500 rpm side than the 7500 rpm   calculation.From what I observed recently,  there is a cam produced by a local brand  JASMA able to deliver 8hp on  wheel for a totally stock 4G13 engine. The specification is : Intake 270deg lift 9.35mmExhaust 275deg lift 9.20mmWell, I am not saying something  without any proof. Here is the dyno  graph for before and after JASMA  high cam installed (from  squiparts.com).  By in mind that the dyno graph  below is a totally  stock 4G13 carburetor. Without any modification for  the exhaust system  and etc. The best part is this cam shaft only cost  you about RM400++  which is worth to invest for a good performance. <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxlX_RNO-I/AAAAAAAAApQ/qswwoGa1eyg/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+017.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxlX_RNO-I/AAAAAAAAApQ/qswwoGa1eyg/s200/4G13+and+4G15+modification+017.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxlYmWqsII/AAAAAAAAApY/nj8z7M0h-mg/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxlYmWqsII/AAAAAAAAApY/nj8z7M0h-mg/s200/4G13+and+4G15+modification+018.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a>3. Computer Modifications<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxZVGIA8aI/AAAAAAAAAow/9UscbPh2siY/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+013.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxZVGIA8aI/AAAAAAAAAow/9UscbPh2siY/s640/4G13+and+4G15+modification+013.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a>Sorry   to carburetor owner, this modification is only available for those EFI   owner. There are two types of choices, either standalone or piggy  back.1. If you are still budget  conscious, then stick with the piggy back.  However do remember that EFI  piggyback with Siemens VDO ECU is not work  because Siemens VDO ECU do  have the ability of reset the setting after  sometimes.2.  Since budget is not the concern here then a standalone is what you   need. Much more advanced tuning, with options like shift lights, in   built boost controllers, many many more mapping points, much finer   tuning. Additionally the stock ECU even with a piggy back is unable to   cope with any camshaft changes at all. For piggy back system, I  recommend Greddy Emanage. If you have a tight  budget, take the Greddy  Emanage blue with ignition harness. If you have  more budget, you may get  the Greddy Emanage Ultimate which provide  more tuning capability. I do  not really recommend UNICHIP because you  need to bring to their  authorized dealer to tune your car. This is  quite inconvenience for  those who stay far apart from those authorized  dealers.For standalone system, I  persoanlly recommend Apexi Power FC. This is  because it has the  commander for you to fine tune your car compare to  the rest like  Haltech/Microtech which need a special software from the  tuner to tune  it. However the downside of Apexi Power FC is, it is not  universal,  which means that it is built for particular car model. You  may read my  ECU upgrade for my Celica (Apexi Power FC) <a href="http://www.ben9166.com/2010/03/project-celica-standalone-upgrade-for.html" target="_blank">here</a>.   Haltech EMS systems - There is the E6X for those wanting something   simple, or the Haltech E8 for those wanting the best. With the inbuilt   boost controllers, and hosts of other functions, these are way ahead of   trying do piece together a piggy back with separate boost controllers,   shift lights, gauges etc.4. Intake Manifold Upgrade / Twin Throttle Body / 4 Throttle Body Conversion <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxaIG5LMyI/AAAAAAAAAo4/FJB3L9S8qeA/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+014.JPG" target="_blank"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxaIG5LMyI/AAAAAAAAAo4/FJB3L9S8qeA/s640/4G13+and+4G15+modification+014.JPG" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a>If you are remaining Naturally Aspirated you have several options.1. First you can go for a single  throttle body with Internal Ram Tubes.  Massive throttle response,  Haltech piggy back system great looks  without extreme levels of tuning  required. Significant torque  improvements and can be utilized up to a  single 60mm throttle body2.  Upgrade utilizing stock manifold, modified with fitment of a second   throttle body - twin throttle body conversion. Either twin 46mm or twin   51mm throttle bodies work very nicely for a progressive throttle   response and great top end rush of power. This system is fantastic and   highly recommended if insurance premiums are a 3. The third option is a   combination of a Performance Intake Manifold and twin throttle body.   Massive plenum chamber, improved air flow, progressive throttle   response, this is nearly equivalent to a quad throttle body kit without   the side effects and all of the benefits. Massive air flow and the   ability to tune with a piggy back or EMS system. Not turbo compatible of   course.5. 1.6 SOHC Stroker Kit Package<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxcdMZlm3I/AAAAAAAAApA/NrJOtdJDXhI/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxcdMZlm3I/AAAAAAAAApA/NrJOtdJDXhI/s640/4G13+and+4G15+modification+015.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a>Some   people not believe their stock engine can be 1.6 liters. These engine   can fit 4G18 Stroker kit which is 1.6 liters in capacity. Stock 1.5   block will be rebore n some modification on the stroker needed. Beside   4G18 from Proton Waja 1.6L, another option is the S4PH from the 1.6   Campro engine. The S4PH is lighter which I believe the engine is easier   to rev. Furthermore, SP4H has a longer stroke which capable to bore and   stroke it more than 1.6L but the durability and reliable is a doubt  here  since I personally have not see a 4G15 bore more than 1.6L.  Comparing  the CC that able to get from 4G15 after the stroker kit are  4G18 ->  1584cc and S4PH -> 1597cc.6. Turbocharger Conversion Package<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxdBDU1xMI/AAAAAAAAApI/Rmf7erisrWU/s1600/4G13+and+4G15+modification+016.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_WnxU5DbZvnk/TAxdBDU1xMI/AAAAAAAAApI/Rmf7erisrWU/s640/4G13+and+4G15+modification+016.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a>What   more can I say other than your a horsepower and boost Junkie. Welcome   to the rest of the world. This combines extreme levels of torque and   power, with neck snapping acceleration. It comes at a cost though,   increased fuel economy, higher insurance and lots of money. But lets get   something clear first.1. Anyone believing they can effectivly fit a turbo kit on there car safely, properly and legally.2.  These engines in stock form will not handle above 1 PSI boost  without  aftermarket computer management despite what people believe. 25  : 1  rising rate fuel pressure regulators, larger injectors, moving the   distributor to retard timing all these tricks - none work. Don't  skimp.3.  5th Injector systems are something that came and died in the 80's.   Quite simply this does not distribute fuel properly to all cylinders,   and still does not provide ignition timing adjustment.4. For boost levels up to 10 psi can be done safety on the stock head gasket dependent upon tuning and intercooler efficiency.5. For boost levels up to 14 psi requires an upgraded decompression head gasket.6. Do not boost above 14 psi on the stock piston / conrod setup otherwise you will learn what a banana conrod looks like.The 4G15 SOHC engine at around 12 psi is good for around 130kw at the flywheel at the extreme.Finally, it reached the end of  this post. My advice for those who still  do not satisfy the power gain  from all these modifications, you should  instead either look for another  car or look to do a engine swap to a  larger mitsubishi engine. If you have any other  modifications wish to share with me, do email me  at <a href="mailto:ben9166@gmail.com">ben9166@gmail.com</a> or  drop me a comment. Thanks for the support.</blockquote>

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