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<blockquote data-quote="maheshsenadheera" data-source="post: 16032192" data-attributes="member: 181897"><p style="text-align: center"><p style="text-align: center"><strong>Heating</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Heating:</strong> Aquarium Systems Newatt 25w</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Available from:</strong> Most LFS (anywhere that sells maxijets!)</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Price:</strong> GBP 15.00</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Tropical Marine aquariums should be kept at between 24C – 26C</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">This particular brand of heater was chosen because it is the only black colored heater on the market. I will be painting the back of the aquarium black so by choosing a black colored heater, it would be less visible when inside the aquarium.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Salt Water</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">A reef aquarium is nothing without saltwater!</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>RO water:</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Available from your LFS or you can produce your own with an RO unit. Using RO water from the start is very important. Tap water containers high nutrient levels, chlorine and other chemicals that are fit for human consumption, but can cause you a lot of grief and algae problems in an aquarium. High quality Reverse Osmosis water will have most of these contaminants removed.</p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p><p style="text-align: center"><strong>Reef Salts:</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Available from all LFS I use Korallen-Zucht Reefers Best Salt which I buy in 20KG buckets. However, you can buy small 2kg packs of WAVE salt for less than GBP 5.00.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Measuring Salinity:</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Reef aquariums should be kept at 35ppt Salinity or 1.024-1.027 Specific Gravity. These can be measured using either a refractometer or hydrometer. Refractometers costs GBP 20 - 35.00</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">A refractometer is initially more expensive than a hydrometer but if you play to be in this hobby long term then it’s a worth while investment. I find refractometer easier to use and easier to read. You will be making saltwater regularly so you will be using it often. Also, nano tanks have only a small volume of water so it is important ensure that salinity remains stable even with daily evaporation. A refractometer or hydrometer will help you check this.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">In a small skimmer-less nano reef tank, regular weekly water changes will be the best routine maintenance you can do! Therefore, you will need a regular supply of RO water and salt.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">IMPORTANT: Make up enough salt water to fill your tank before you buy any liverock! Ideally, you should make this water 8-24hours before hand</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Bits and bobs</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Test Kits:</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">To start with, you will need the following test kits:</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Ammonia</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Nitrite</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Nitrate</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Phosphates</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">I would recommend Salifert test kits for testing all the above parameters except Phosphates. The D-D/Merck Phosphate test kit is currently the most accurate test kit.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Other useful items:</strong></p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Maxijet pumps –</strong> available in a range of flow ratings</p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Hose/tubing –</strong> useful for transferring water between buckets and your aquarium</p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Magnetic aquarium glass cleaners</strong></p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Turkey baster -</strong> useful for transferring very small amounts of water, feeding or blowing dust/detritus off rocks etc</p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Milliput/Aquarium putty/super glue gel –</strong> for sticking rocks together or mounting corals</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Substrate:</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Sand: I have chosen to use sugar size fine aragonite sand. I used dry sand, which I sieved and pre-washed in tap water to remove some of the fines. You can use any substrate you want and I recommend that you keep the depth to no more than 1 inch.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Some shops such STM also offer live sand. This is different from the ‘live’ sand sold in pre packed sealed bags. The live sand in sealed bags is only biologically live and does not contain any sand bed fauna of true live sand.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Live rock</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Live rock forms the base of our biological filtration. Bacteria living inside the rock will break down nutrients and help maintain a healthy tank. With such a small tank it is important that you spend a little extra on the best quality live rock you can find. I have chosen to use 3.2Kgs of STM’s ultrarock. Remember to pick out some nice shapes to aid you with the aquascaping. Estimated price for Quality Live rock from most LFS ~ GBP 8 - 12.00 per kg</p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong><p style="text-align: center">Putting it all together...</p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p><p style="text-align: center"><strong>1. Clean & Test</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">Firstly, water test the tank. Fill with tap water and check for any leaks. Return the tank to your retailer if there are any faults. Once checked that your tank is fault free, clean it with tap water and a new sponge. Do not use any detergent. Vinegar can be used for any stubborn patches of dirt. Do not use a pan scourer or you will scratch the tank.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>2. Add a background to your tank</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">I have chosen to paint the back of my tank with black paint. I personally prefer to use a black background as it gives a more dramatic look and coral colours tend to stand out more. A black background also helps reduce the visibility of black coloured equipment and cables.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">You can also use coloured plastic sheets; however, painting the glass will give you the best end result. The painted background should look smooth and wrinkle/bubble free.</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><img src="http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle6.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><img src="http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle7.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p><p style="text-align: center"><strong>3. Setup your filters</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">In most cases, this includes making sure everything is the correct place (read the instructions), giving the plastic parts a quick rinse under tap water and fitting the filter materials e.g. Sponges, carbon etc</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center">In my case, I have decided to modify the filter a little. The sponges on the filter were removed on both sides and an egg crate grid was added to keep the media inside the compartments. The left side held zeolites and the standard carbon screen, and the right had some zeolites, the standard carbon screen and a filter sock with aluminium based phosphate removers (FM ultraphos) and some active carbon (FM ultracarb L).</p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Left side</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong><img src="http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle8.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong><strong>Left side with zeolite stones</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong><img src="http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle9.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong><strong>Filter sock with phosphate remover and carbon</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong><img src="http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle10.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong></strong></p></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> <p style="text-align: center"></p> </p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="maheshsenadheera, post: 16032192, member: 181897"] [CENTER][CENTER][B]Heating[/B] [B]Heating:[/B] Aquarium Systems Newatt 25w [B]Available from:[/B] Most LFS (anywhere that sells maxijets!) [B]Price:[/B] GBP 15.00 Tropical Marine aquariums should be kept at between 24C – 26C This particular brand of heater was chosen because it is the only black colored heater on the market. I will be painting the back of the aquarium black so by choosing a black colored heater, it would be less visible when inside the aquarium. [B]Salt Water[/B] A reef aquarium is nothing without saltwater! [B]RO water:[/B] Available from your LFS or you can produce your own with an RO unit. Using RO water from the start is very important. Tap water containers high nutrient levels, chlorine and other chemicals that are fit for human consumption, but can cause you a lot of grief and algae problems in an aquarium. High quality Reverse Osmosis water will have most of these contaminants removed.[/CENTER] [CENTER][B]Reef Salts:[/B] Available from all LFS I use Korallen-Zucht Reefers Best Salt which I buy in 20KG buckets. However, you can buy small 2kg packs of WAVE salt for less than GBP 5.00. [B]Measuring Salinity:[/B] Reef aquariums should be kept at 35ppt Salinity or 1.024-1.027 Specific Gravity. These can be measured using either a refractometer or hydrometer. Refractometers costs GBP 20 - 35.00 A refractometer is initially more expensive than a hydrometer but if you play to be in this hobby long term then it’s a worth while investment. I find refractometer easier to use and easier to read. You will be making saltwater regularly so you will be using it often. Also, nano tanks have only a small volume of water so it is important ensure that salinity remains stable even with daily evaporation. A refractometer or hydrometer will help you check this. In a small skimmer-less nano reef tank, regular weekly water changes will be the best routine maintenance you can do! Therefore, you will need a regular supply of RO water and salt. IMPORTANT: Make up enough salt water to fill your tank before you buy any liverock! Ideally, you should make this water 8-24hours before hand [B]Bits and bobs[/B] [B]Test Kits:[/B] To start with, you will need the following test kits: Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate Phosphates I would recommend Salifert test kits for testing all the above parameters except Phosphates. The D-D/Merck Phosphate test kit is currently the most accurate test kit. [B]Other useful items:[/B][/CENTER] [CENTER][B]Maxijet pumps –[/B] available in a range of flow ratings[/CENTER] [CENTER][B]Hose/tubing –[/B] useful for transferring water between buckets and your aquarium[/CENTER] [CENTER][B]Magnetic aquarium glass cleaners[/B][/CENTER] [CENTER][B]Turkey baster -[/B] useful for transferring very small amounts of water, feeding or blowing dust/detritus off rocks etc[/CENTER] [CENTER][B]Milliput/Aquarium putty/super glue gel –[/B] for sticking rocks together or mounting corals [B]Substrate:[/B] Sand: I have chosen to use sugar size fine aragonite sand. I used dry sand, which I sieved and pre-washed in tap water to remove some of the fines. You can use any substrate you want and I recommend that you keep the depth to no more than 1 inch. Some shops such STM also offer live sand. This is different from the ‘live’ sand sold in pre packed sealed bags. The live sand in sealed bags is only biologically live and does not contain any sand bed fauna of true live sand. [B]Live rock[/B] Live rock forms the base of our biological filtration. Bacteria living inside the rock will break down nutrients and help maintain a healthy tank. With such a small tank it is important that you spend a little extra on the best quality live rock you can find. I have chosen to use 3.2Kgs of STM’s ultrarock. Remember to pick out some nice shapes to aid you with the aquascaping. Estimated price for Quality Live rock from most LFS ~ GBP 8 - 12.00 per kg[/CENTER] [B][CENTER]Putting it all together...[/CENTER] [/B] [CENTER][B]1. Clean & Test[/B] Firstly, water test the tank. Fill with tap water and check for any leaks. Return the tank to your retailer if there are any faults. Once checked that your tank is fault free, clean it with tap water and a new sponge. Do not use any detergent. Vinegar can be used for any stubborn patches of dirt. Do not use a pan scourer or you will scratch the tank. [B]2. Add a background to your tank[/B] I have chosen to paint the back of my tank with black paint. I personally prefer to use a black background as it gives a more dramatic look and coral colours tend to stand out more. A black background also helps reduce the visibility of black coloured equipment and cables. You can also use coloured plastic sheets; however, painting the glass will give you the best end result. The painted background should look smooth and wrinkle/bubble free. [IMG]http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle6.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle7.jpg[/IMG] [CENTER][B]3. Setup your filters[/B] In most cases, this includes making sure everything is the correct place (read the instructions), giving the plastic parts a quick rinse under tap water and fitting the filter materials e.g. Sponges, carbon etc In my case, I have decided to modify the filter a little. The sponges on the filter were removed on both sides and an egg crate grid was added to keep the media inside the compartments. The left side held zeolites and the standard carbon screen, and the right had some zeolites, the standard carbon screen and a filter sock with aluminium based phosphate removers (FM ultraphos) and some active carbon (FM ultracarb L). [B]Left side [IMG]http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle8.jpg[/IMG] [/B][B]Left side with zeolite stones [IMG]http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle9.jpg[/IMG] [/B][B]Filter sock with phosphate remover and carbon [IMG]http://www.aquariumlanka.com/images/Forum_Reef/ReefArticle10.jpg[/IMG] [/B][/CENTER] [/CENTER] [/CENTER] [/QUOTE]
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