PC Cooling

Anusha

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Jun 13, 2006
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Maximum CPU temperature and maximum CPU power usage

Introduction
This page is there to answer the common question: "My CPU is running at xx degrees, is it too hot?". Here are the maximum temperatures for the most popular CPUs.

Keep in mind that the onboard measurement facilities are often inaccurate and may report temperatures that are too low. This is especially the case with motherboards that use a thermal sensor below the CPU to "guess" the CPU temperature. The temperature values displayed by the BIOS have usually a correction value added, to compensate for this problem - but in some cases this correction value may be too low, or the sensor might not be in good contact with the CPU.

This means: If the maximum allowed temperature for your CPU is 95°C, and your motherboard reports a CPU temperature of 90°C, then you are not on the safe side.

However, this doesn't mean that you should start to panic when your Athlon XP CPU reaches 60 degrees celsius, for example. Most people tend to underestimate normal CPU operating temperatures - maybe due to overclockers bragging with their super-low CPU temperatures in forums.

Also, note that these values are for CPUs that are not overclocked. Overclocked CPUs may run unstable even if their temperature is way below the maximal specified temperature.

What happens if the maximum operating temperatures are exceeded?
If your cooler is insufficient and the temperature exceeds the maximum operating temperature, then this does not mean that the CPU is automatically damaged. With AMD CPUs, you will usually encounter crashes if the CPU is overheated; but these go away as soon as the CPU is cooler again. In the long term, running the CPU at a temperature that is too high may reduce the CPU life, since an overheated CPU is more prone to electromigration - even if it runs stable. With P4 CPUs, the CPU will turn its speed down automatically when it overheats. No damage to the CPU is possible, but the system will get slower while it's hot (which, in some cases, users might not even notice).

If you attempt to operate a CPU without heatsink at all, recent AMD CPUs will usually be permanently damaged within seconds, unless special protection circuitry is available on the motherboard. P4 CPUs will run excessively slow without cooler.

The purpose of this page is to give you a quick overview of typical maximum operating temperatures for common CPUs. In the case of Intel CPUs, values vary a bit; if you need precise information for one specific CPU model, please use the datasheets on the CPU manufacturer's website, or visit Chris Hare's Processor Electrical Specifications page - there, you will find more details, and also data for more exotic CPU types than the ones covered here.

Higher is better here
On cooling-related websites, lower temperatures typically correspond to better products. On this particular page, the opposite is true: The higher temperatures a CPU can withstand, the less cooling is required. CPUs with low electrical power, but high temperature rating can be used with more quiet and more compact coolers. An example for such a CPU is the Pentium-M, which dissipates less than 25 watts, but may reach temperatures of up to 100°C. The worst-case example is the Pentium 4 Extreme Edition 3.46GHz, which dissipates over 110 watts, but may only reach a maximum temperature of 66°C. Obviously, you need a large and possibly loud cooler here.

The actual data:

AMD Athlon, Athlon 64, Opteron, Duron and Sempron
All Slot A CPUs (Athlon classic, Athlon Thunderbird) 70°C
Athlon Socket A up to 1 GHz, Duron up to 1.3GHz
90°C
Athlon "Thunderbird" Socket A 1.1GHz or more 95°C
Athlon MP 1.33GHz or more 95°C
Athlon XP up to 2100+
90°C
Athlon XP 2200+ and faster
85°C
Duron "Applebred" 1.4G and faster 85°C
AMD Opteron
69 or 70°C
depending
on model
Athlon 64, 64FX, Sempron
Most models 70°C; 65°C for some Socket 939 Athlon 64 models
Athlon 64 X2 (dual core)
65°C


AMD K6 series
All K6 CPUs (166-300MHz) and most K6-2/K6-III CPUs 70°C
K6-2/K6-III CPUs, model name ending with X (e.g. K6-2-450AFX) 65°C
K6-2-400AFQ (uncommon) 60°C (!)
K6-2+, K6-III+, most mobile K6/K6-2 CPUs 85°C
mobile K6/K6-2 model name ending with K (e.g. mobile K6-2-P-400AFK) 80°C

The temperatures specified for AMD CPUs max case surface temperatures. These CPUs do not have an internal diode to measure CPU temperature. The accuracy of the CPU temperature measurement depends on the motherboard; therefore, it is possible that the CPU overheats even though the CPU temperature reported by the motherboard is below the specified maximal temperature.

Intel Pentium III
Pentium III Socket 370 500-866MHz,
Pentium III Slot 1 (first generation, OLGA) 550-600MHz,
Pentium III Slot 1 ('Coppermine') 500-866MHz 80-85°C depending on model
Pentium III Socket 370 and Slot 1, 933MHz 75°C
Pentium III Slot 1 933MHz 60°C (!)
Pentium III Slot 1 1GHz 70°C for newer versions
60°C (!) for older version
Pentium III Slot 1 1.13GHz (first version) 62°C (!)

Pentium III max temperatures are the maximum temperatures reported by the thermal junction inside the CPU.

Intel Celeron / Celeron
Celeron 266-433MHz 85°C (max. CPU case temperature)
Celeron 466-533MHz (0.25µ) 70°C (max. CPU case temperature)
Celeron 533-600MHz ('Coppermine) 90°C
Celeron 633 and 667MHz 82°C
Celeron 700-850 MHz
80°C
Celeron 900MHz-1.4GHz
69-70°C depending on model
Celeron 1.7GHz and faster
67-77°C depending on model

Celeron max temperatures are the maximum temperatures reported by the thermal junction inside the CPU, unless otherwise specified.

Intel Pentium II
Pentium II (1st generation, 'Klamath') 72-75°C depending on MHz
Pentium II (2nd generation, 2.0V core), 266-333MHz 65°C
Pentium II (350-400MHz) 75°C
Pentium II (450MHz) 70°C

Pentium II temperatures are the maximum temperatures of the thermal transfer plate (on which the heatsink is installed).

Intel Pentium 4, Pentium 4 Extreme Edition, Pentium M
Pentium 4
Max. temperature depends much on model and clockspeed, but no clear pattern is visible. Consult Intel's tech specs for information on your particular model.
(Lowest: P4 Extreme Edition 3.2GHz with 64°C, highest: P4 Willamette 1.8GHz with 78°C). 64°C - 78°C
Pentium M
100°C (!)


Intel Pentium D (dual core)
Pentium D 820 (2.8GHz) 63°C
Pentium D 830 and 840 (3.0-3.2GHz) 69.8°C


Note: Pentium 4 and Pentium D temperature specifications indicate the maximum cover temperature, which is typically lower than the temperature reported by the internal thermal diode. Therefore, your system may be running fine even if the reported "CPU temperature" in the BIOS is higher than the temperature specified here. This does not mean that you're on the safe side, though.

Intel Pentium Pro
Pentium Pro, 256 or 512K L2 cache 85°C
Pentium Pro, 1MB L2 cache 80°C

Pentium Pro temperatures are maximum surface temperatures.

Typical maximum power usage of common CPUs and overclocked CPUs

Apart from the maximum CPU operating temperature, the maximum power usage under typical worst-case conditions (thermal design power) is also essential for selecting a suitable cooling system. To find out about CPU power usage, please check out Chris Hare's Processor Electrical Specifications page. There, you will find values for unoverclocked CPUs running at their specified voltage.

How can you estimate power usage of an overclocked CPU based on this value?

The theory behind calculating the power usage for an overclocked CPU is very simple: Power usage is proportional to clock speed, and proportional to the square of the core voltage.

Before we express this as a formula, let's intruduce the following variables:

* Ps is the power usage of the non-overclocked CPU
* Po is the power usage of the overclocked CPU
* Fs is the clock speed of the non-overclocked CPU
* Fo is the clock speed of the overclocked CPU
* Us is the default voltage of the non-overclocked CPU
* Uo is the voltage at which the overclocked CPU runs

Here is the formula:

Po = Ps * (Fo/Fs) * (Uo2/Us2)

A simple example:

We want to calculate the maximum power usage of a Athlon "Thunderbird" 1.33 GHz CPU overclocked to 1.6GHz using 1,9V voltage. From this page, we find out that:

* Ps is 70W (max)
* Us is 1.75V

Also, we know that

* Fs is 1.33GHz
* Fo is 1.6GHz
* and Uo is 1.9V

Therefore:

Po = 70 W * (1.6/1.33) * (1.92/1.752) = 99.26 W

Values calculated using this method are not very accurate, since I/O voltage and FSB speed is not taken into account. However, they should be precise enough to help you decide what kind of power supply and cooling you need.

Disclaimer

The information here is provided WITHOUT WARRANTY of any kind. If you are designing a system and need to have accurate information on the maximum temperature of a specific CPU, please rely on the information provided by the CPU manufacturer, and not the information here.

Last update: December, 2004. Future CPU models (even if they are marketed under the same name/with the same MHz) as the CPUs mentioned here may have different thermal specifications.
 

Anusha

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Jun 13, 2006
25,864
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Hard Drive Cooling - prevent the need for data recovery

Introduction

As 7200rpm hard drives are the standard today, and high-rpm drives are found in most desktop PCs, and not just in servers, hard drive cooling has become a more important issue.

Most recent IDE hard drives come with internal temperature sensors, and are capable of reporting their operating temperature via SMART; software utilities are available for displaying the temperature of your hard drive. This temperature readout is not very precise, but definitely good enough to give you a hint whether your drive is running too hot or not. Consult the website of your hard drive manufacturer to learn about the maximum operating temperature of your hard drive. Typical maximum temperature range is 50-55°C, with some drives being able to operate at up to 60°C.

There is, however, an important factor to consider:
Unlike CPUs, which are reliable parts, and fail rarely (even when operated very close to their maximum temperature), hard drives tend to fail more often than any other part in the PC. The MTBF (mean time between failure) of a hard drive can be substantially increased by lowering the drive's temperature. Some drive manufacturers even state this fact in their drives data sheets; but even if this information isn't included there, it is still true. So, even if your drive never exceeds its maximum allowed operating temperature, additional cooling will improve the drive's reliability. Unless you do daily backups, a hard drive failure usually results in substantial data loss - investing a small amount of time and money in your drive's cooling solution can often prevent the need for data recovery (which isn't cheap).

With optical disks, overheating usually results in destruction of the surface that actually contains the data (e.g. chemical dye in the case of CD-R/DVD-R media). However, with hard drives, overheating typically causes long-term failure of the mechanical and electrical parts of the drive; the magnetic platters that carry the data are less affected. Therefore, data recovery companies will normally be able to recover data from damaged overheated drives - but be prepared to pay much more for getting your data back than for a new drive.

Does hard drive cooling affect performance?
Although this is often claimed by manufacturers of HDD cooling products, the temperature does not directly affect the performance of the drive in any significant way - seek times and data transfer rate will stay the same, no matter how hot the drive is running.

Old hard drives had a thermal recalibration loop - from time to time, the hard drive would make a short pause and recalibrate itself. When the drive warmed up, the platters expand, and their geometry changes, thus making recalibration necessary. With such drives, good cooling resulted in less frequent recalibration, and therefore did improve performance, especially for Audio/Video applications. However, these days are long over - all recent drives with embedded servo do not have a thermal recalibration loop. Temperature will not affect performance in any way.

Do drives only get hot when accessed often?
No. What generates most heat in a drive is the friction between the platters and the air that surrounds them. The magnetic plates inside the drive rotate at a high speed, but the air inside the drive doesn't, and even if the plate is perfectly flat, there's a lot of air resistance, so a powerful spindle motor is required to keep the drive spinning at high speed.

The movement of the drive's heads and the heat emitted by the drive's electronics only have a small contribution to the total heat emitted by the drive. Therefore, even drives that are mostly idle still require cooling (unless, of course, auto-spindown is enabled and the drive shuts itself down after not being accessed at all for a longer period of time).

Hard drive cooling solutions
The best solution for cooling hard drive is one that is well-integrated with the case cooling concept. When purchasing a case, make sure that fan intakes and drive bays are located in a way that proper cooling of the drives is possible. A fan bay for a large fan (the bigger, the better - server cases usually come with 120mm fan bays) right in front of the drive bays is perfect. If your case has a fan bay suitable for cooling drives, get a good fan and install it there. This is cheaper than buying a dedicated hard drive cooler, provides good cooling for the drive, and will have a positive effect on overall case ventilation.

Dedicated hard drive coolers
If your case does not allow proper ventilation of the drives by using normal case fans, you might want to look at special hard drive coolers. A multitude of different models are available on the market; they usually come with small 40mm fans, which are less efficient and typically louder than larger case fans. Some come with heatsinks for hard drive cooling, others rely on fans alone.

There are, however, exceptions to this rule, like the Global WIN IStorm, which features an unusual cross-flow fan.

The most simple hard drive cooler simply consists of a 5.25 drive bay cover with two embedded 50mm fans.

More advanced drive coolers come with a heatsink/fan combination, or are just large passive heatsinks that should be mounted on the drive (which, of course, only helps if there is at least a minimum amount of air flow across the drive).

To show the advantages and disadvantages of different hard drive cooling concepts, here's a look at a few typical HDD coolers:

* Global WIN King Kong II - a standard hard drive cooler with two 50mm fans
* InClose BayCooler II - High-quality three-fan cooler with dust filter
* Global WIN IStorm / IStorm II - unusual hard drive cooler which uses a cross-flow fan
* Vantec "Ultimate HDD cooler" - Cooler with two fans and a heatsink
* CoolerMaster CoolDrive - Cooler with a large heatsink and two 50mm fans with dust filter
 

Anusha

Member
Jun 13, 2006
25,864
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Info about connectors

Introduction
The power supply plug contains a +12V wire (yellow), two ground wires (black), and one +5V wire. Since most fans run with 12V, you will have to connect the red fan wire to the yellow PS wire, and the black fan wire to the black PS wire; if you have a 5V fan, connect red to red and black to black. See the image below for an illustration.

How to get 7V voltage without any additional electronic components...
Power supply plug If you have a 12V fan, and you find it too loud, the best solution is to build yourself a temperature control for it. However, if you'd just like to reduce noise without adding a temperature control, there's a simply trick how you can achive this.

The problem is that normally, you only have the choice between two voltages: 12V and 5V, and most 12V fans will not run at all if they're powered with only 5V. What many people don't know is that you can get 7V from your power supply plug, without using any resistors or other components. Almost all 12V fans will run very well at 7V.

You can simply use the voltage difference between the +12V and +5V lines to power your fan with 7V: Connect the fan's + wire (usually red) to the power supply's +12V wire (yellow), and the fan's - wire (usually black) to the power supply's +5V wire (red).

psplug.gif


Note: unlike some other electrical motors, you cannot reverse the rotation direction of fans by reversing the polarity. If the polarity is incorrect, the fan motor will not work at all, or might even be damaged.

A word about the MOLEX (three-pin motherboard) connector
MOLEX three pin plug The molex connector has three wires: + (usually 12V, usually red), GND (usually black), and SIGNAL (usually yellow or white, but there are no clear standards). Unless you are a board designer, only the + and GND wires are of interest to you. (For the curious: The SIGNAL switches between NC and GND twice per rotation, resulting in a square perioducal signal if you connect a (low) voltage.

molexplug.gif