Sri Lanka

netlife007

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  • Feb 10, 2008
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    That's racy cave paintings, elephant orphanages, 200m fortress and beautiful Sri Lankan beaches


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    “DON’T worry! It’s not a problem!” beamed the guard at his little table perched halfway up the side of the astonishing Sigiriya rock fortress.

    “Everything is OK,” he grinned while shaking his head, “You CAN’T come in.”

    We’d left the tickets he required with our guide who, thanks to a sudden fit of the vapours, was waiting for us in the stunning landscaped water gardens at the base of the 200metre-high rock.

    But this being Sri Lanka, our guard couldn’t simply say NO. Smiling, he continued politely to block our way to the top.

    A very civilised stand-off.
    For it wasn’t just the incredible views across miles of lush Sri Lankan countryside that had taken our breath away.

    We’d been climbing giant stone steps and winding along narrow pathways for nearly half an hour in blistering heat and none of us fancied walking all the way down to get our ticket stubs.

    Minutes later — with a queue growing behind us — a solution arrived in the form of another guide, again beaming, sweating and carrying our precious tickets.
    With the papers correct, our guard welcomed us up the spiral staircase for the final push to the top.

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    Racy ... cave painting at fortress
    Pausing only to admire a cave and its 1,500-year-old racy paintings of topless Sri Lankan beauties, we toiled onwards and upwards past the giant carved lion’s feet that once marked the entrance to this incredible palace complex.

    And then finally, we went up some terrifyingly tiny stairs with the thinnest of rails to the summit.
    The views — and the blessed breeze — were worth every sweaty second of the climb.

    Little remains of the palace itself, bar a few stones and an amazing natural pool filled with blue water, but the views were stunning.

    From wide terraces at the top of the rock we drank in the verdant forests, lazy rivers and even a giant, gold Buddha perched on a hilltop in the distance.

    But as incredible as Sigiriya is, it was the Sri Lankans themselves who had me captivated.
    Criss-crossing the country to take in the best of its sights in just three days, I was bowled over by the friendly welcome from the cricket-loving people.


    We’d started our journey in chaotic capital Colombo as the city welcomed the return of British Airways flights after a 15-year absence. The new route will make discovering this incredible island sitting just off the southern tip of India a lot easier for Brits.

    I had just a few days to take in the highlights but travellers MUST take their time and tour.

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    netlife007

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    Life's a beach ... pool at the Fortress Hotel Photoego

    Spend a week discovering the cultural and natural highlights of the interior before relaxing on one of Sri Lanka’s many fabulous beaches on the south coast. Hiring a private guide and driver will cost around £120 for a week and is well worth the outlay.

    Heading from Colombo for the ancient city of Kandy in the centre of the island gave me a tantalising first glimpse of this beautiful country.

    All around is green — from glistening paddy fields to tumbling, dense forests. The bumpy road took us through ramshackle villages and dusty towns past waving schoolchildren in white uniforms. We stopped at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage to see the gracious beasts at play in the Maha Oya river before touring the centre itself.

    We reached Kandy by mid-afternoon and the colonial charms of the Mahaweli Reach Hotel on the banks of the Mahaweli River were captivating.

    We headed straight for the pool — with its river views — and relished the chance to wash off the dust.

    Later, the hotel’s manager gave us a lesson in the art of making a pot of tea with fresh leaves direct from the nearby hill plantations. There was much muttering about the correct tea-milk-sugar order but we were all far too polite to disagree — and anyway, it really was a fabulous cuppa.

    As the sun set and the heat of the day cooled to a balmy warmth, we headed out to the nearby Temple Of The Tooth relic — one of the most revered shrines in the Buddhist world.


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    Pack your trunks ... Lisa Minot at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage
    Said to have been snatched from Buddha’s funeral pyre, the relic sits in an ornate 17th Century wood, ivory and lacquer temple inside a grand 18th Century complex. We paid our respects along with hundreds of locals — be sure to cover your arms and legs and only enter the temple barefoot — before strolling along the lake by the temple admiring the lights of Kandy over the water.
    Our next stop was the southern town of Galle — a colonial gem known for its fabulous 17th Century Dutch sea fort.

    The coasts here are fringed with fabulous beaches and it is here that most first-time tourists fall in love with Sri Lanka’s many charms.
    There are good-value, boutique hotels in many of the colonial villas, now restored to their former glory.

    Take a stroll along the dramatic fortifications before exploring the narrow streets and many shops.

    This is the place for retail therapy, with gemstones, silks and crafts galore. Check out Barefoot and Elephant Walk on Church Street for crafts, silks and clothes or Laksana for jewels.
     

    netlife007

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    Fancy a cuppa? ... tea-making lesson in Sri Lanka
    But the star attractions here on the south coast are the fabulous beaches — natural, dramatic, laid-back and just waiting for you to chill out.
    We checked in to the five-star The Fortress — with its fabulous sea views and an infinity pool stretching out to the ocean.

    From our sunbeds we watched turtles frolic in the surf while local kids set up an impromptu game of cricket on the sand.

    For more unforgettable beach vibes, head a little further south from Galle to Unawatuna — for classic palm-fringed white sands, excellent diving and some great nightlife.


    Everywhere I went on my whistlestop tour, I was met with smiling faces, gentle humour and a proud desire to showcase Sri Lanka at its best.

    The island may well have had its troubles but its people are ready and waiting to welcome us.
    Go now and enjoy.