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Message: <blockquote data-quote="WICKILEAKS" data-source="post: 14694334" data-attributes="member: 326944">මුලින්ම කියන්න ඕන මේ ලගදී ඉදන් මට මාළු උණක් හැදුනා. ඉතින් අපේ මාළු මහේෂ් සහෝගෙන් උපදෙස්ද සහිතව ටැංකියක් මේන්ටේන් කරන්න පටන් ගත්ත. එක තව දුරටත් දුර දිග ගිහින් මාළු ලොවේ රජා “King of the Aquarium” විරුදාවලිය ලත් Discus මාළුවන් ඇති කරන්න අදහසක් ආවා. ඉති මේ ගැන හොයන්න අන්තර්ජාලයේ සැරිසරන ගමන් ඒ පිළිබද ඉතාම වැදගත් තොරතුරු ටිකක් හම්බ උනා. අපේ තව මේකට ආස අය ඇති හින්ද ෂෙයාර් කරගන්න බැලුවා. මෙන්න මෙයාලව හදන්නේ කොහොමද , මේන්ටේන් කරන්නේ කොහොමද සියල්ල පහලින් දක්වා ඇත (මේකට වැඩි  යමක් ඇත්නම් එකතු කරන ලෙසද මාළු ලෝලීන්ගෙන් ඉල්ලා සිටිනවා) <img src="http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36511&thumb=1&d=1319394502" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />මෙන්න මෙයාගේ පැටිකිරියයි වටපිටාවයි INTRODUCTIONFamily: CichlidaeGenus: Symphysodon1. S. Discus Heckel - 2. S. Aequifasciatus (green discus) - 3. S. Haraldi (blue and brown)Wild discus inhabit some of the tributaries of the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/" target="_blank">Amazon</a> River in South America. They usually live in large socialgroups in shallow river, stream, or creek beds of slow-moving water near the banks where tree roots protrude, providingcover. Vegetation hanging overhead provides shade from the bright light. The water temperature is generally constant inthe 27 to 29 Celsius ( C ) range (low 80s Fahrenheit (F)} . The pH is acidic, usually in the range of 5.0 to 6.0. The wateris very soft as it contains very small amounts of dissolved minerals. These conditions differ significantly from theenvironment usually found in home aquaria but the discus have adapted well. For instance, domestic discus have shownthey are able to thrive in steady but wide-ranging pH levels, up to 8.0. They have also done well under consistentlystronger lighting conditions, and in heavily planted environments. However, all discus remain largely intolerant of poorwater quality, or water temperature below 27 C (81 F).<img src="http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36512&thumb=1&d=1319394597" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />There was very little known or written about discus until after the middle part of the 20th century, and it wasn’t untilaround the 1960s that hobbyists in various parts of the world began breeding wild-caught discus. After that time, a gooddeal of information began to emerge about keeping and breeding these marvelous fish. In the 1970s and 80s, there was aproliferation of breeders who established discus fish farms for local and export sale, mainly in South East Asia and someparts of Europe, particularly in Germany. By 1990, many new and colorful varieties of this intriguing fish had beendeveloped.Discus are one of the most graceful, interesting, and arguably the most beautiful of all freshwater tropical fish. Thefascination of keeping and raising these magnificent fish has taken the aquatics world by storm, and you’re one of themany wanting to get started with this very satisfying hobby.This guide is intended to get you started on the right footing – to enable you to raise the “King of the Aquarium” in goodhealth, with the least amount of start-up snags and problems.Here’s how to get started!AQUARIUM START-UPA. TANK SIZEDiscus are relatively large fish, growing to 15 centimeters (cm) (six inches) or more at maturity, measured from noseto tip of tail, and therefore require a good deal of tank space in order to reach their potential and thrive. I recommend you start off with the largest tank you can afford. This should be no less than 220 litres (L) (55 gal.), but more preferably in the range of 260-300 L (65-75 gal.). If budget is a problem, buy a used tank.B. TANK EQUIPMENT1. HeatingDiscus require a temperature range of 28-30 C (82-86 F) in order to thrive. You’ll need to acquire a heater ofsufficient wattage to maintain the desirable temperature for keeping your discus, in accord with the size of your tank.As a guide, one watt per L should be sufficient– so a 250 watt heater should do nicely in a 220 L tank. As manyheaters only have a maximum temperature setting of 30 C (83 F), it will be very difficult for such a heater to achieveand constantly maintain water temperature at the maximum setting level. It is best therefore to get a heater with amaximum setting level of 34 C (93 F). There are a number of reliable makes on the market, so you will have a goodselection to choose from.2. FiltrationThere are three types of filtration, i.e. biological, mechanical and chemical.<ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">1 - Biological filtration refers to the breakdown of toxic ammonia into nitrites, and then into nitrates by a colony of bacteria. These bacteria are often referred to as ‘beneficial’, or ‘nitrifying’ bacteria.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">2- Mechanical filtration refers to the process of removing solid waste matter and other particulates from the water column. Examples include foam pads and flosses.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">3- Chemical filtration removes chemical impurities and discolorations and clarifies the water. Carbon is often used for this purpose.</li> </ol>All three types of filtration can be maintained, or ‘housed’ if you will, in the actual filter container types that youselect for your tank, whether that be a Hang-On-Back (HOB), or canister. A sponge filter will provide for biologicaland some mechanical filtration. Your colony of beneficial bacteria will establish itself in or on tank surfaces, butprimarily on and within whatever filter media you elect to use in your filtration container(s).There are many reliable types of filters to choose from. Many, if not most, discus keepers raise their fish in barebottomtanks and they usually employ one or more sponge filters, often supplemented by either HOBs or canisterfilters, to provide for all their filtration needs. In a planted tank, the preference seems to be to use either HOBs, orcanisters, or both together, and to forego sponge filtration, primarily for aesthetic reasons.The size of the tank, its purpose, and your preference will determine the needed type, size and capacity of the variousfilters which are available to choose from. Capacity is measured by the volume of water turned over each hour. Acomplete turnover of at least four times an hour is suggested as being suitable. An example of adequate filtercapacity for a 220 L (55 gal.) tank would be to use a filter rated for tanks up to 300 L (75 gal.), and which has anaverage water flow rate of 800 L (200 gal.) or more per hour. This will result in a complete water turnover rate in thetank of approximately four times an hour.3. Test Kits and Other EssentialsOne of the most important items of equipment you will need are test kits to test your water on a regular basis for thepresence of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, and to determine the pH, and general and carbonate hardness levels.While your local fish store (LFS) will very likely provide a water testing service at no cost to you, this can be quiteinconvenient. With your own test kits, you will be able to quickly check your water parameters at any time. This willallow you to ensure your ongoing tank care is being maintained as it should, and to determine if your water is theculprit should problems occur.Once your tank is fully cycled and ready to house fish, the test for both ammonia and nitrites should read “0”, andnitrates should be less than 20 milligrams per L (mg/L). Mg/L are synonymous with ppm (parts per million). YourpH test should reflect a steady, stable maintenance of pH anywhere between 6.0 and 8.0. For discus-keeping, yourwater’s general hardness (gh) can suitably be anywhere between a low of “0” to a high of 200 mg/L, whereascarbonate hardness (kh) should generally be between 40 and 100 mg/L.You will also want to equip yourself with other essential items, such as a water conditioner to remove chlorine,chloramines, and other undesirable elements from your tap water. A water conditioner should be used at start-upwhen cycling your tank, and whenever replacing water during water changes. As an alternative, you may want tolook into and consider acquiring an HMA filter (Heavy Metal Axe), which is used to remove chlorine, chloramines,and potentially harmful metals from your tap water. Although relatively expensive initially, many hobbyists find thatan HMA filter is more economical in the long run than continually buying liquid de-chlorinators, and producesbetter quality, safer water for their discus.Other needed items are a thermometer, fish net, siphon hose, 20 L (5 gal.) bucket or pail for water changes, sponge,scrub brush, perhaps a water barrel for ageing water (a food-safe garbage pail will do), extra filter media items suchas filter floss, foam pads, etc. and of course, some fish foods. If you’re doing a planted tank, you’ll need substrate,plants, driftwood and/or rocks, etc.Once you have decided on the size of your tank, you’ll need a sturdy stand to carry the weight. A filled tank, withsubstrate, driftwood, etc., will weigh around one kilogram (2.2 pounds) per L , so a 220 L (55 gal.) tank will weighapproximately a quarter of a ton. Buy a ready-made stand that is specifically designed to maintain the weight of thetype and size of tank you are getting or, if you are going a home-made route, get some expert help to ensure it isproperly braced and structured to accommodate the weight.As for lighting, you won’t need extra strong, bright lighting for discus. Low light will do, perhaps in the range ofaround .25 to .5 watts per L . For a planted tank, this should prove adequate for many, if not most, of the hardy, easyto grow plants that will also tolerate the higher temperature you will be maintaining for your discus.C. TANK SET-UP CHOICES1. Bare-Bottom TankThis set-up is by far the most preferred approach by both newcomers to the hobby and experienced aquarists alike,for “growing-out” juvenile discus or for keeping adults. It is generally regarded as the easiest for maintenancepurposes, and the most successful way of keeping discus. It allows you to readily spot any build-up of uneaten food,fish feces, or other matter, and quickly siphon it off at any time. It makes it easier to undertake more frequent andlarger water changes to promote better and quicker growth of juveniles, to maintain a high level of water quality atall times, and to more easily clean tank glass, as well as to service or change equipment. A bare bottom tank is easierto medicate if that should ever prove necessary.<img src="http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36515&thumb=1&d=1319395226" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />2. Planted/Display TankThis second option can be either discus only, or a “community” type tank with some other species of fish. For thehobbyist, there is arguably nothing more attractive than a well aquascaped discus display tank. It’s a sight to beholdand could suit you well, particularly if you have previous experience keeping tropical fish in a planted tankenvironment.The ratio of fish to size of tank will be reduced in this set-up, given the quantity of water taken up by substrate,plants and other décor. In this case you’ll want to either increase the size of your tank, or reduce the number of fishyou’ll be keeping. For example, if you were planning to keep eight adults in a 300 L (75 gal.) bare-bottom tank, youshould reduce that number to six in the same-sized planted tank.Secondly, for your discus’ sake your water temperature will need to be maintained at no less than 28 C (82 F) –nothing lower will do – and that can pose a challenge for keeping plants, as many varieties do not do well at thattemperature and above. Planted discus tanks entail more work and attention to keeping both elements healthy andthriving. Your focus will obviously have to be on the discus.So, if you have no prior experience with a planted aquarium, you would be well-advised to go for a bare-bottom setup,at least until you gain experience with discus. However, if you do have experience with planted tanks, youneedn’t be fearful of giving it a go if you accept the challenge of the extra attention and diligence needed. It’s certainyou will find it most satisfying and enjoyable.<img src="http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36516&thumb=1&d=1319395284" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></blockquote>

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