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A great pond setup for monster fish.
meka tiyenne maharagama filling station eke. gihin balanna one nam
IOC eka
Fish diseases and how to treat
Egg-binding
This is where a female is unable or unwilling to expel the eggs. Usually the eggs are absorbed back into the body. Other symptoms are lethargy, rapid breathing and general loss of appetite. Epsom salts can help the fish absorb the eggs but in severe cases an antibiotic may be required if the eggs have decomposed and caused a bacterial infection. (See Epsom Salt treatment or Antibiotic Treatment.)
Intestinal blockage (constipation)
Due to constipation, gasses can build up inside the fish's stomach or intestines and cause the fish to bloat or lose equilibrium. If this is the cause, a change in diet is required including more variety and roughage. This is usually the cause of “Boring Diet Syndrome” and an excess of starchy foods.
Internal bacterial infection
In most cases this is characterized as a gram-negative bacterial infection. The best results can be garnered by using a broad spectrum “gram-negative” antibiotic. Egg-binding can also lead to an internal bacterial infection. (See below for antibacterial treatments.)
Swim bladder disorder
This can be characterized by the fish having a general buoyancy problem. You may observe the fish floating at the surface and being unable to stay at the bottom of the tank without considerable effort. The fish may also swim with its head pointed downwards or even appear as if it is standing on its head with its nose planted in the gravel. In severe cases the fish may even swim inverted.
Intestinal Parasite
Amongst African enthusiasts, this is considered a leading candidate for the cause of bloat in African cichlids. Symptoms are very similar (if not the same) as those of us that keep South American cichlids commonly diagnose as “Hex”. Treatment is generally the same as Hex, using metronidazole, and in extreme cases, using Clout.
Treatments
From my personal experience I always try the least invasive method of treatment first before resorting to any harsher methods. That said I will always assume an intestinal blockage before a bacterial infection unless there is overwhelming evidence to the contrary, and a bacterial infection before egg-binding unless the female is a known layer who is suspected as withhold the expulsion of her eggs. Below are the most common treatments for the symptoms and ailments described above:
Epsom Salt Treatment
Quickest Cure:
Feed a shelled pea. Peas are natural laxatives for fish. You may want to slightly blanch or microwave the peas for a few seconds to soften them up and remove the shell.
Quick Cure:
Feed a pea with a crystal of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the fish. Epsom salts is a purgative. If that doesn't purge the fish, use one of the expanded methods below. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully.
Short Dip:
In a large container filled with water from your aquarium, add 1 tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon (this keeps water temperature constant for the initial part of the bath. Swim the fish in this solution for 1/4 to 1/2 hour or until stress shows or feces are released. Top the water up in the fish's usual container with dechlorinated water and return the fish to it. Change the water in about an hour to remove any feces and residual salts. Repeat daily until fish shows signs of recovery. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment.
Medium Term Bath:
1 tablespoon Epsom salt per 5g, repeated every day for 3 days. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. During this procedure do not feed. After the fish has recovered - feed a more varied diet including live foods as much as possible (crickets, earthworms, bloodworms, etc.) Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment.
Long Term Bath:
Add 1/8 teaspoon of Epsom salt for every 5 gallons of water. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment
Antibiotic Treatment
Some of the best medications for treating for bacterial infections contributing to swim-bladder disorders and internal infections resulting from decomposing eggs in egg-bound females are listed below:
Nitrofuran (also known as Furan.)
Remove activated carbon, increase aeration during treatment, WILL AFFECT BIOLOGICAL FILTER - use of a quarantine tank is suggested.
Kanamycin Sulfate (Kanamycin, Kanacyn.)
Not for use with ornamental fish, remove activated carbon, increase aeration during treatment, WILL AFFECT BIOLOGICAL FILTER - use of a quarantine tank is suggested.
Kmuda note: SeaChem KanaPlex does not impact the biological filter, or at least has not impacted biofiltration when I've used it in over filtered tanks.
Maracyn-2.
Safe for biological filter - 5 day treatment, increase aeration during treatment.
Egg-binding
This is where a female is unable or unwilling to expel the eggs. Usually the eggs are absorbed back into the body. Other symptoms are lethargy, rapid breathing and general loss of appetite. Epsom salts can help the fish absorb the eggs but in severe cases an antibiotic may be required if the eggs have decomposed and caused a bacterial infection. (See Epsom Salt treatment or Antibiotic Treatment.)
Intestinal blockage (constipation)
Due to constipation, gasses can build up inside the fish's stomach or intestines and cause the fish to bloat or lose equilibrium. If this is the cause, a change in diet is required including more variety and roughage. This is usually the cause of “Boring Diet Syndrome” and an excess of starchy foods.
Internal bacterial infection
In most cases this is characterized as a gram-negative bacterial infection. The best results can be garnered by using a broad spectrum “gram-negative” antibiotic. Egg-binding can also lead to an internal bacterial infection. (See below for antibacterial treatments.)
Swim bladder disorder
This can be characterized by the fish having a general buoyancy problem. You may observe the fish floating at the surface and being unable to stay at the bottom of the tank without considerable effort. The fish may also swim with its head pointed downwards or even appear as if it is standing on its head with its nose planted in the gravel. In severe cases the fish may even swim inverted.
Intestinal Parasite
Amongst African enthusiasts, this is considered a leading candidate for the cause of bloat in African cichlids. Symptoms are very similar (if not the same) as those of us that keep South American cichlids commonly diagnose as “Hex”. Treatment is generally the same as Hex, using metronidazole, and in extreme cases, using Clout.
Treatments
From my personal experience I always try the least invasive method of treatment first before resorting to any harsher methods. That said I will always assume an intestinal blockage before a bacterial infection unless there is overwhelming evidence to the contrary, and a bacterial infection before egg-binding unless the female is a known layer who is suspected as withhold the expulsion of her eggs. Below are the most common treatments for the symptoms and ailments described above:
Epsom Salt Treatment
Quickest Cure:
Feed a shelled pea. Peas are natural laxatives for fish. You may want to slightly blanch or microwave the peas for a few seconds to soften them up and remove the shell.
Quick Cure:
Feed a pea with a crystal of Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the fish. Epsom salts is a purgative. If that doesn't purge the fish, use one of the expanded methods below. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully.
Short Dip:
In a large container filled with water from your aquarium, add 1 tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon (this keeps water temperature constant for the initial part of the bath. Swim the fish in this solution for 1/4 to 1/2 hour or until stress shows or feces are released. Top the water up in the fish's usual container with dechlorinated water and return the fish to it. Change the water in about an hour to remove any feces and residual salts. Repeat daily until fish shows signs of recovery. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment.
Medium Term Bath:
1 tablespoon Epsom salt per 5g, repeated every day for 3 days. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. During this procedure do not feed. After the fish has recovered - feed a more varied diet including live foods as much as possible (crickets, earthworms, bloodworms, etc.) Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment.
Long Term Bath:
Add 1/8 teaspoon of Epsom salt for every 5 gallons of water. Up the temperature to between 82 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit and monitor for two weeks. Increase aeration or surface agitation during this time of offset the lack of oxygen in the water due to the high temperatures. Check for signs of bacterial infection or parasites for further treatment
Antibiotic Treatment
Some of the best medications for treating for bacterial infections contributing to swim-bladder disorders and internal infections resulting from decomposing eggs in egg-bound females are listed below:
Nitrofuran (also known as Furan.)
Remove activated carbon, increase aeration during treatment, WILL AFFECT BIOLOGICAL FILTER - use of a quarantine tank is suggested.
Kanamycin Sulfate (Kanamycin, Kanacyn.)
Not for use with ornamental fish, remove activated carbon, increase aeration during treatment, WILL AFFECT BIOLOGICAL FILTER - use of a quarantine tank is suggested.
Kmuda note: SeaChem KanaPlex does not impact the biological filter, or at least has not impacted biofiltration when I've used it in over filtered tanks.
Maracyn-2.
Safe for biological filter - 5 day treatment, increase aeration during treatment.
Salt Treatments:
Understand that while salt is frequently used as a treatment/preventative for sick fish, it is no guarantee. It can even be dangerous to some fish (for example, cory catfish).
There is nothing more important than maintaining a proper environment (temperature, water quality, aeration).
Basically, salt will strip or re-stimulate (depending upon the concentration) the slime coat produced by the fish, increasing antibodies and making bacteria, fungus, and parasites more vulnerable to medications such as antibiotics or fungicides.
The following salts can be used in a salt treatment for your fish: Aquarium, solar (without anti-caking additives), meat curing, sea, kosher, rock, pickling, and ice cream salts, or regular non-iodized table salt.
The additives mentioned above may include a type known as sodium ferrocyanide or yellow prussiate of soda. This is deadly to fish. The "cyanide" part should clue you in to that.
For a constant preventative treatment, use a low concentration of about .3%. This is equal to about 2.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon of water. If you have live plants in your aquarium, you may want to consider about half that amount.
For a concentrated "dip" to be used in treatment of external parasites, the concentration should be 1%, or 7.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon. You must be very careful when using these dips. All fish will react differently to salt treatments, and especially smaller fish must be monitored very closely. Generally this will be done in a hospital/quarantine tank, as water changes are the only way to remove salt from your main tank. The hospital/quarantine tank should be at least one gallon, with no rocks and only two or three plastic plants for security. The temperature should be kept between 75-80 degrees with good aeration. Dissolve your salt completely before adding your fish. Once you have put your fish into the water, watch it closely for signs of distress, such as rolling over. This may be as quickly as a few seconds with smaller or baby fish. Remove the fish at the first sign! Do not leave your fish in this solution longer than 30 minutes. Then place it in a container of aged water, preferably not taken from the main (still infected) tank. Give the tank a thorough cleaning while your fish recuperates.
Understand that while salt is frequently used as a treatment/preventative for sick fish, it is no guarantee. It can even be dangerous to some fish (for example, cory catfish).
There is nothing more important than maintaining a proper environment (temperature, water quality, aeration).
Basically, salt will strip or re-stimulate (depending upon the concentration) the slime coat produced by the fish, increasing antibodies and making bacteria, fungus, and parasites more vulnerable to medications such as antibiotics or fungicides.
The following salts can be used in a salt treatment for your fish: Aquarium, solar (without anti-caking additives), meat curing, sea, kosher, rock, pickling, and ice cream salts, or regular non-iodized table salt.
The additives mentioned above may include a type known as sodium ferrocyanide or yellow prussiate of soda. This is deadly to fish. The "cyanide" part should clue you in to that.
For a constant preventative treatment, use a low concentration of about .3%. This is equal to about 2.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon of water. If you have live plants in your aquarium, you may want to consider about half that amount.
For a concentrated "dip" to be used in treatment of external parasites, the concentration should be 1%, or 7.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon. You must be very careful when using these dips. All fish will react differently to salt treatments, and especially smaller fish must be monitored very closely. Generally this will be done in a hospital/quarantine tank, as water changes are the only way to remove salt from your main tank. The hospital/quarantine tank should be at least one gallon, with no rocks and only two or three plastic plants for security. The temperature should be kept between 75-80 degrees with good aeration. Dissolve your salt completely before adding your fish. Once you have put your fish into the water, watch it closely for signs of distress, such as rolling over. This may be as quickly as a few seconds with smaller or baby fish. Remove the fish at the first sign! Do not leave your fish in this solution longer than 30 minutes. Then place it in a container of aged water, preferably not taken from the main (still infected) tank. Give the tank a thorough cleaning while your fish recuperates.
මේක දැක්කම නම් මටත් ආසාවක් ආවා හදන්න... දැනට මගේ ගාව තියන මාලු ටැන්කිය දිග අඩි දෙකහමාරක් පලලයි උසයි අඩි 1 1/4... මේ වගේ ටැන්කියකට හරියන්නේ ඔය කියපු වර්ග වලින් මොන වර්ගයද? ජොඩු කියක් දාන්න පුලුවන්ද? මම ඉන්නේ මාලඹෙ මේ අහල පහල තැන් වල මම බලුවා මට හොයා ගන්න බැරි උනා පිරාන ඔස්කා කියන වර්ග.... මට ගන්න පුලුවන් කොහෙන්ද ඔය වර්ගයේ මාලු? පොඩ්ඩක් විස්තරයක් කියන්න පුලුවන්නම් ලොකු දෙයක්.. ගානත් කියන්න පුලුවන් නම් හොඳා...
අද මගේ එක piranha කෙනෙක් මරුනා. මේ piranha තමයි tank එකේ හිටපු weak ම එකා. දැනට සතියකට විතර කලින් ඉදල ඌ tank එකේ එක කොනකට වෙලා හැංගිලා හිටියේ.
මම හිතුව මූ අනිත් උන්ට බය නිසා තමයි එහෙම ඉන්නේ කියල. ඒත් ඊයේ තමයි දැනගත්තේ ඒක ලෙඩක් කියලා. ඔගොල්ලොන්ගේ piranha ත් එහෙම tank එකේ කොනකට වෙලා ඉන්නවනම් වෙනම tank එකකට අරන් treat කරන්න.
ඊයේ ඌගෙ බඩ ලොකු වෙලා තිබුනා. මම internet එකේ search කරලා බැලුවම තිබුනේ epsom salt දැම්මම වැඩේ හරි යනවා කියල. තව මම monsterfishkeepers.com එකේ ගිහිල්ල ත්රෙඩ් එකකුත් දැම්ම මේක ගැන. එයාල කිව්වෙත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
ඒත් මම වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් ඇහුවම කිව්වා piranha ට salt දන්නා එපා. ඌට ඒවා poisonous කියල. ඒත් මම දැම්ම, මොකද forums වල තිබුනේ epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
මම epsom salt treatment එක කරලා පැය 2ක් විතර ඌව check කරලා ගමනක් ගියා. එද්දී ඌ මැරිලා. ඔයාලගෙත් piranha කෙනෙක් ලෙඩ උනොත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න එපා. වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් කිව්වා වගේ ඒක ඇත්තටම piranha ට poisonous.
අනිත් එක piranha tank එකට හොද powerful filter එකක් තියෙන්න ඕනේ. ඇතුලේ drift wood එකක් දැම්මම ඇති. මේ සතියේ මම අලුත් tank එකක් ගන්නවා. Rs 27000.
4*2*2 tank size, inbuilt super powerful filter system එකක් එක්ක. ඒක ගත්තම ෆොටෝ දාන්නම්. මේ ඉන්නේ මරුන piranha.
It took one life to learn so much about piranha care that I never knew before.
I hope this will never happen to any of my fish again.
මම හිතුව මූ අනිත් උන්ට බය නිසා තමයි එහෙම ඉන්නේ කියල. ඒත් ඊයේ තමයි දැනගත්තේ ඒක ලෙඩක් කියලා. ඔගොල්ලොන්ගේ piranha ත් එහෙම tank එකේ කොනකට වෙලා ඉන්නවනම් වෙනම tank එකකට අරන් treat කරන්න.
ඊයේ ඌගෙ බඩ ලොකු වෙලා තිබුනා. මම internet එකේ search කරලා බැලුවම තිබුනේ epsom salt දැම්මම වැඩේ හරි යනවා කියල. තව මම monsterfishkeepers.com එකේ ගිහිල්ල ත්රෙඩ් එකකුත් දැම්ම මේක ගැන. එයාල කිව්වෙත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
ඒත් මම වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් ඇහුවම කිව්වා piranha ට salt දන්නා එපා. ඌට ඒවා poisonous කියල. ඒත් මම දැම්ම, මොකද forums වල තිබුනේ epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
මම epsom salt treatment එක කරලා පැය 2ක් විතර ඌව check කරලා ගමනක් ගියා. එද්දී ඌ මැරිලා. ඔයාලගෙත් piranha කෙනෙක් ලෙඩ උනොත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න එපා. වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් කිව්වා වගේ ඒක ඇත්තටම piranha ට poisonous.
අනිත් එක piranha tank එකට හොද powerful filter එකක් තියෙන්න ඕනේ. ඇතුලේ drift wood එකක් දැම්මම ඇති. මේ සතියේ මම අලුත් tank එකක් ගන්නවා. Rs 27000.
4*2*2 tank size, inbuilt super powerful filter system එකක් එක්ක. ඒක ගත්තම ෆොටෝ දාන්නම්. මේ ඉන්නේ මරුන piranha.
It took one life to learn so much about piranha care that I never knew before.
I hope this will never happen to any of my fish again.
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නැකැත් රාල;15905887 said:
piranha innawa wattegedara aquarium eke. ube tank eke mcn danna puluwan maximum 2 piranha. eeta wadiya daanna baha. piranha 2 nek witarak daana eka sometimes dangerous. they can turn on each other and kill unless they are an establish pair. piranha 1 pair ganna puluwan 2 inches each Rs 600 - 700. Oscar nam e size eke un ganna puluwan less than Rs. 200 per pair.
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අද මගේ එක piranha කෙනෙක් මරුනා. මේ piranha තමයි tank එකේ හිටපු weak ම එකා. දැනට සතියකට විතර කලින් ඉදල ඌ tank එකේ එක කොනකට වෙලා හැංගිලා හිටියේ.
මම හිතුව මූ අනිත් උන්ට බය නිසා තමයි එහෙම ඉන්නේ කියල. ඒත් ඊයේ තමයි දැනගත්තේ ඒක ලෙඩක් කියලා. ඔගොල්ලොන්ගේ piranha ත් එහෙම tank එකේ කොනකට වෙලා ඉන්නවනම් වෙනම tank එකකට අරන් treat කරන්න.
ඊයේ ඌගෙ බඩ ලොකු වෙලා තිබුනා. මම internet එකේ search කරලා බැලුවම තිබුනේ epsom salt දැම්මම වැඩේ හරි යනවා කියල. තව මම monsterfishkeepers.com එකේ ගිහිල්ල ත්රෙඩ් එකකුත් දැම්ම මේක ගැන. එයාල කිව්වෙත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
ඒත් මම වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් ඇහුවම කිව්වා piranha ට salt දන්නා එපා. ඌට ඒවා poisonous කියල. ඒත් මම දැම්ම, මොකද forums වල තිබුනේ epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
මම epsom salt treatment එක කරලා පැය 2ක් විතර ඌව check කරලා ගමනක් ගියා. එද්දී ඌ මැරිලා. ඔයාලගෙත් piranha කෙනෙක් ලෙඩ උනොත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න එපා. වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් කිව්වා වගේ ඒක ඇත්තටම piranha ට poisonous.
අනිත් එක piranha tank එකට හොද powerful filter එකක් තියෙන්න ඕනේ. ඇතුලේ drift wood එකක් දැම්මම ඇති. මේ සතියේ මම අලුත් tank එකක් ගන්නවා. Rs 27000.
4*2*2 tank size, inbuilt super powerful filter system එකක් එක්ක. ඒක ගත්තම ෆොටෝ දාන්නම්. මේ ඉන්නේ මරුන piranha.
It took one life to learn so much about piranha care that I never knew before.
I hope this will never happen to any of my fish again.
අද මගේ එක piranha කෙනෙක් මරුනා. මේ piranha තමයි tank එකේ හිටපු weak ම එකා. දැනට සතියකට විතර කලින් ඉදල ඌ tank එකේ එක කොනකට වෙලා හැංගිලා හිටියේ.
මම හිතුව මූ අනිත් උන්ට බය නිසා තමයි එහෙම ඉන්නේ කියල. ඒත් ඊයේ තමයි දැනගත්තේ ඒක ලෙඩක් කියලා. ඔගොල්ලොන්ගේ piranha ත් එහෙම tank එකේ කොනකට වෙලා ඉන්නවනම් වෙනම tank එකකට අරන් treat කරන්න.
ඊයේ ඌගෙ බඩ ලොකු වෙලා තිබුනා. මම internet එකේ search කරලා බැලුවම තිබුනේ epsom salt දැම්මම වැඩේ හරි යනවා කියල. තව මම monsterfishkeepers.com එකේ ගිහිල්ල ත්රෙඩ් එකකුත් දැම්ම මේක ගැන. එයාල කිව්වෙත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
ඒත් මම වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් ඇහුවම කිව්වා piranha ට salt දන්නා එපා. ඌට ඒවා poisonous කියල. ඒත් මම දැම්ම, මොකද forums වල තිබුනේ epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න කියල.
මම epsom salt treatment එක කරලා පැය 2ක් විතර ඌව check කරලා ගමනක් ගියා. එද්දී ඌ මැරිලා. ඔයාලගෙත් piranha කෙනෙක් ලෙඩ උනොත් epsom salt treatment එක කරන්න එපා. වත්තේගෙදර aquarium එකෙන් කිව්වා වගේ ඒක ඇත්තටම piranha ට poisonous.
අනිත් එක piranha tank එකට හොද powerful filter එකක් තියෙන්න ඕනේ. ඇතුලේ drift wood එකක් දැම්මම ඇති. මේ සතියේ මම අලුත් tank එකක් ගන්නවා. Rs 27000.
4*2*2 tank size, inbuilt super powerful filter system එකක් එක්ක. ඒක ගත්තම ෆොටෝ දාන්නම්. මේ ඉන්නේ මරුන piranha.
It took one life to learn so much about piranha care that I never knew before.
I hope this will never happen to any of my fish again.
tank eke photo ekak dapan
. filter system eka sump ekakda??oya maluwata pinsidda wenna bath packet ekak aran deepan higannekta.
රජ්ජුරුවෝ;15907797 said:tank eke photo ekak dapan
oya maluwata pinsidda wenna bath packet ekak aran deepan higannekta.
powerhead ekak dala tiyenne bn. thread eke mula hariya tank eke photo dala tiyenawa. dan tawa maluwek tikak tank eke konakata wela innawa, uutat me ledemada danne naha. ada mama tank ekata aqualine damma, malunta bacterial infection ekak nam treatment ekak widiyata. heta udeta balanna one, unge behavior eka.
ada tank eke 100% water ayin karala water fill karapu nisa ada behaviour eken kiyanna amarui. heta tamai balanna wenne.
ow bn, me maluwawa matak karala pin wadak karala uuta pin denna one me satiye.
aluth tankiye photo man kiwwe. anith un kotalada danne na uta. kama wel 3k withara dapan hari yana kan. mage joduwak podi kale kotagena ahak galawuna. habai ledak une na unta kawadawath.
man langadi dehiwala paththe yanawa red devil pataw dennek genna. red devil patta
රජ්ජුරුවෝ;15908123 said:aluth tankiye photo man kiwwe. anith un kotalada danne na uta. kama wel 3k withara dapan hari yana kan. mage joduwak podi kale kotagena ahak galawuna. habai ledak une na unta kawadawath.
man langadi dehiwala paththe yanawa red devil pataw dennek genna. red devil patta
ow bn, samanyen piranha ta leda hadenne kalaturakin. wadiya kanna denna hoda na bn. mage ewun dan 3.5-4.5 inches. unta 1 time a day kanna denna one. dan problem ekak una nisa entire tank ekatama medicine dala tiyenne,.
ada kanna denne naha. hetat kanna denne naha godak welawata. hitunot poddak denawa heta rata.
oya monsterfishkeepers site eke un kiyana hama magulama karanna epa. un nan kiyay hungry fish is healthy fish kiyala. eth man okun anith malu ekka hadala thiyenawa. dawasata thunparak dunna hamadama kama. dawasata deparak dunnath yantham shape. naththan anithunge agen kali kadan kanawa. badgini wechcha gaman stress eka hondata penawa pirnhalage. bada pirunama goldfish wage. badgini yanthan danichcha gaman langin yana malunta kotanna hadanawa.
piranha witharak inna nisa umbata oka penne na. umba kama aduwen dena nisa oke napuru ekek anith unta kotanawa wennath puluwan badagini welawata.
රජ්ජුරුවෝ;15908276 said:
mas kana sattu mcn echchara feed karanna one na., nil diya ekenut ehemai kiwwe. mama danna ekek gawa innawa 16 years old 4 piranhas. unwa feed karanna maximum 2 times a week. malunta hama tissema kanna denna one na bn.
